Making an Amethyst Ring

Posted by Robyn Anderson on Thursday, April 7, 2016 Under: Rings
I thought I would post some progress shots as I make another amethyst ring. You can see here my faceted amethyst cabochon, 20g silver sheet, gallery wire and 1.6mm silver wire oval ring. 

I prepare the gallery wire and oval ring by sanding the bottoms flat on 400 grit emery paper. Everything then gets assembled. I find it easier soldering everything at once. Occasionally I need to go back and add some more solder if there are gaps anywhere around the edge of the oval wire ring. You will notice I am using a charcoal block for soldering. I much prefer it for larger settings because it contains the heat more and reflects back more heat. Sometimes I heat a section of the  block first then slide the setting onto it. Things go a lot quicker then!

I like to add some texture to the oval ring at this stage in the process. I then pierce out the setting using my jeweller's saw. The more accurate you are at this stage means less work filing later.

The setting has been filed and now I am ready to solder on the shank. I am using 6x1.2mm silver for the band. I want to make a size 8 so I will need 60.3mm if I were to make a complete ring.  I take off 9mm from this amount. This is the gap I want at the back of the ring. I form the ring using my Pepe ring bending tool but you can also do this on a ring mandrel or using Wubbers mandrel pliers. The ring needs to be perfectly round because this is almost impossible to do once the soldering is done. I then place the ring in my vice with the open ends facing out and file those ends so they are perfectly flat and the shank sits unaided on the back of the ring setting.

I draw a grid on the back of the setting with a sharpie pen. Even though the marks vanish fairly quickly when the metal heats up, there is enough time to make sure the shank is in the right position and adjust it if it moves a little when the flux starts to warm. I place a piece of solder on the back plate where it touches the edge of the ring shank on both sides then point the flame on the other side of the shank to draw the solder through. 

Here it is, just out of the pickle!

I rinse it then clean the ring with a bristle brush and detergent. And now into the liver of sulphur.

I do a pre-polish at this point then set the bezel. 

It is now ready for final polishing.

And here are some glamour shots!!!!!

I know there are lots of gaps in my description of my process. When I was first learning I hated those gaps!!! Feel free to contact me if you have any questions :)

In : Rings 

Tags: "ring making" rings "soldering process" "soldering rings" "making cabochon rings"